From Ancient Elixirs to Modern Masks: The Timeline of Korean Cosmetics

Am: 15.06.2023 durch: evaheyer
The fascinating world of Korean cosmetics

K-Beauty products stand out for their superior quality, rooted in natural ingredients, cutting-edge innovations, and time-honored beauty traditions. To truly grasp the essence of this distinct cosmetic realm, one must journey back through its rich history. In this article, we will traverse the timeline of Korean cosmetics, segmenting it into three pivotal eras: the foundational days during the Three Kingdoms Period, the evolution throughout the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties, and the rise of contemporary K-Beauty.

I. Origins in the Three Kingdoms Period (57 B.C. - 668 A.D.)

Early Korean history, spanning from 57 BC to 668 AD, was dominated by the three kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla. This era is commonly referred to as the Three Kingdoms Period. The period was marked by the introduction of Buddhism as the state religion and vibrant cultural exchanges with China and Japan. Impressions from this epoch continue to shape Korean culture and tradition.

Reminiscent of the European Middle Ages, since the Three Kingdoms era, Koreans dressed in attire that reflected their societal rank and affiliation. Inspired by T'ang China's fashion, Korean aristocrats donned broad trousers and belted jackets towards this period's end. Noblewomen sported long skirt-trousers and waist-length jackets. In contrast, commoners usually wore simple white garments. Beauty rituals, integral to daily routines, were practiced across genders. A well-maintained appearance symbolized not just affluence and prestige, but also conveyed respect and decorum towards others.

This era's inhabitants had profound knowledge of nature's therapeutic and nourishing qualities. The cosmetic and medicinal components were primarily sourced from nature, encompassing plants, minerals, and animal derivatives. Some ingredients, like green tea, ginseng, bamboo, and seaweed, prevalent then, remain cornerstones in today's Korean cosmetics and traditional medicine. Rice flour was a popular ingredient for facial pastes, offering the skin a sleek, matte look, while honey acted as both a moisturizer and a preservative for beauty products.

Cosmetic compounds were primarily crafted through traditional methods, including boiling botanical elements, drying, pulverizing, and blending ingredients. The art of fermentation, borrowed from food preservation, enhanced the efficacy and gentleness of certain ingredients.

Foundational skincare routines, encompassing cleansing, exfoliation, moisturization, and environmental protection, were already in practice. Natural oils and botanical extracts were employed for skin nourishment and cleansing. Affluent individuals enhanced their radiant and healthy glow with frequent massages and acupressure treatments.

II. Progressions during the Goryeo (918-1392) and Joseon (1392-1910) Dynasties

Following the Three Kingdoms era was the reign of the Goryeo Dynasty, which subsequently gave way to the Joseon Dynasty in the 14th century. Both epochs imprinted lasting legacies in art, fashion, health, and beauty domains.

The Goryeo Dynasty

The Goryeo era epitomized a golden age of cultural and economic prosperity, where arts, literature, and crafts thrived. Pervasive trade and cultural liaisons with China introduced Korea to novel cosmetic products and methodologies. Goryeo embraced Confucianism as its core philosophy, pioneering exceptional educational infrastructure with state-led and private institutions. Yet, during the religiously inclusive Goryeo reign, Buddhism also blossomed.

Beauty paradigms and rituals remained tethered to societal hierarchies. Noblewomen prioritized aesthetics, utilizing cosmetics to accentuate their elite status. Intriguingly, much like Europe's aristocracy, a porcelain-like complexion was deemed attractive, symbolizing luxury and an absence of manual labor, such as farming. While Western nations later transitioned to a tanned skin ideal in the 20th century, Korea's reverence for pale skin persists. During the Goryeo era, a multitude of cosmetic practices and techniques saw advancement. Novel ingredients and intricate skincare and makeup regimens gained traction, especially among the elite.

The Joseon Dynasty

Marking one of Korea's most extended and impactful eras, the Joseon Dynasty's influence endures. Confucianism emerged as the state doctrine during this period. The Joseon rulers, ardent critics of Buddhism, limited its practice, relegating monks to remote mountainous regions. This new state ideology dramatically reshaped societal norms and beauty standards. Emphasis shifted to modesty and restraint, mirroring in cosmetic preferences. Aesthetic focus shifted from the individual to one's role within the societal fabric. Gender norms became more rigid, relegating women to domestic roles. Ostentatious makeup styles fell out of favor, replaced by a preference for natural, subdued appearances.

With this revised beauty ideal, the Joseon Dynasty saw a diminished emphasis on makeup and flashy attire, directing attention towards personalized skincare routines. A nuanced understanding of various skin types emerged, leading to tailored skincare products and methods. Cosmetic production advanced, incorporating new ingredients and techniques like animal oils and distillation of botanical essences.

C. Modern Korean Cosmetics

Influence of Western Beauty Ideals

Throughout the 20th century, particularly after the conclusion of the Korean War and the country's subsequent opening to global influences, Western beauty ideals began to shape the Korean cosmetics industry. Decorative cosmetics, such as eye shadow, mascara, and lipstick, regained popularity in Korea. Nonetheless, the focus on natural ingredients and a holistic care approach remained a hallmark of Korean cosmetics, setting them apart from their Western equivalents.

The global rise of K-pop and Korean dramas reciprocally ignited interest in Korean culture and beauty standards in the West. Due to their gentle formulations, unique and natural ingredients, and exceptional efficacy, Korean cosmetics have earned a renowned reputation globally. Historically, Koreans, especially women, have prioritized a polished and clear skin appearance. This aesthetic not only caters to individual beauty standards but is also regarded as an expression of respect and courtesy to others. A luminous, almost porcelain complexion remains a preferred beauty standard, although it's now viewed with a degree of social critique, especially among younger Koreans.

One notable advantage of this beauty ideal is the emphasis on sunscreen application. Frequently used by a vast majority, Korean sunscreens rank among the world's best. When introduced to a Korean sunscreen - often characterized by high SPF, a non-sticky finish, and a lightweight moisturizing feel - many from the West experience a revelation. These featherlight sun creams significantly bolster the international appeal of Korean cosmetics.

In recent times, the Korean cosmetics industry has embarked on a successful global expansion. This has been propelled by substantial investment in research and development, merging age-old recipes with contemporary technology and trends. Such innovative strides have positioned K-Beauty products as trendsetters in the global cosmetics arena. Case in point: BB creams and sheet masks, initially conceived in Korea, have now become staples for many European and US brands.

In 2020, South Korean cosmetic exports stood at an impressive US$7.6 billion, with primary markets being China, the United States, and Japan. Estimates suggest the cumulative revenue of the South Korean cosmetics sector in 2020 hovered around 13 billion U.S. dollars. Currently, South Korea boasts over 2,000 cosmetic brands, offering a diverse product range from skincare and makeup to haircare. These enterprises employ numerous professionals, playing a pivotal role in the nation's economic trajectory.

In conclusion, the saga of Korean cosmetics is a captivating voyage across diverse epochs: spanning the Three Kingdoms Period, traversing through the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties, and culminating in the contemporary K-Beauty wave. Over centuries, the essence of Korean beauty has evolved, yet its core principles of naturalness, holistic approach, and individuality remain unwavering. Today, the Korean cosmetics industry stands as a global force, continually enriching the beauty landscape with premium products and inventive strategies.